The Grange

Written by: Tina Macuha	2:27 PM PST - 3/12/2009
Photography by:	|  Next Photo

Downtown Sacramento is filled with energy and change these days. A new mayor, a new restaurant and a new hotel are some of the latest topics of conversation. When it comes to food, there's a lot of buzz among experienced diners to check out the new Grange Restaurant and Bar at the Citizen Hotel.

Walk in to high ceilings and glass windows that surround much of the eating establishment. Burnt orange leather couches, brown chairs and wooden block tables create a warm, laid back feel. The second floor is dedicated to private booths and a room for larger parties. The Grange is owned by Rubicon Partners and operated by Joie de Vivre, the companies that opened up the Citizen Hotel, Sacramento's only boutique hotel.

The Grange is Executive Chef Michael Tuohy's (pronounced too-wee) vision that includes using local fresh produce and meat to create upscale American cuisine. Northern California vendors include Bledsoe Pork, Five Dot Ranch and Liberty Ducks. Produce comes from Del Rio Farms, Soil Born Farms, River Dog Farms and Full Belly Farms. North Valley Dairy Farm provides the goat cheese. Tuohy compares his menu to restaurants such as Spago, Jar, and Luc's.

Since Grange recently opened its doors, the seats have been filled and the wait staff has been getting a work out. Chef friends tell me that patrons must give a restaurant a couple of weeks to iron out the kinks and advise choosy eaters to visit at least three times before deciding if they'll go back or not. I've eaten there, and the third time was the charm because Tuohy was in the kitchen.

I sampled the lunch menu that includes Grilled Vande Rose Beef Hangar Steak Salad which was cooked perfectly tender to cut with ease. I enjoyed the marinated local beets with micro celery and lemon oil. I thought the Vella Sonoma Jack and Pancetta Panini could have been more exciting. If you feel like splurging, treat yourself to any of the fish dishes especially if it's served with Tuohy's Sardinian couscous, probably my absolute favorite accompaniment. Be sure to ask for a dessert menu. I loved the Bombe, a chocolate hazelnut mousse served with espresso anglaise. Most dishes are priced in the upper teens. The menu changes daily.

Grange is located at 926 J Street in Sacramento. Contact 916-492-4400 or visit www.grangesacramento.com. Valet parking is available.

Michael Tuohy is a San Francisco native and has been in the culinary world for 31 years. He is a supporter of the Slow Food Movement which supports local farmers and their products. Michael spent the last 22 years in Atlanta at Chefs' Café and Murphy's restaurant. He's very happy to be back in California. One of his favorite hobbies is reading and collecting cookbooks. He does a lot of cooking at home and spends time with his wife of 20 years.