Casual Dining or a Special Occasion - Mulvaney's B&L

For the past three years Sacramento diners have been blessed by Chef Patrick Mulvaney and his delicious creations, and it seems that our blessings continue to get richer and better as time moves forward. Mulvaney’s Building & Loan (or more commonly referred to as Mulvaney’s B&L), located in midtown Sacramento, has quickly become a staple in the neighborhood, representing fine dining combined with a casual atmosphere. On our most recent visit to this excellent eatery, we were reminded of the graciousness of the owners and staff, the freshness of the ingredients, and gourmet combinations of Chef Mulvaney’s delectable dishes. The menus change daily, dependent on the freshest ingredients from local farms. Staffed by professionals who understand food well, including Patrick’s wife,Bobbin, with 30 years of food service experience herself, customers are royally treated from the moment they walk into the restaurant.

On a crowded Saturday evening in July, in the former historic fire station with its baring brick interior and twenty foot ceilings, we dined on an assortment of starters and smaller plates. A chilled summer tomato soup with a dollop of basil oil; Del Rio black mission figs stuffed with Shafts bleu cheese; fresh pulled mozzarella with Ray Yeung’s heirloom tomatoes; Sonoma foie gras mousse with Placerville cherry compote; and our favorite of the evening, a black and white tagliatelle with housemade sausage, arugula and roasted lipstick peppers. The flavor combinations were expertly crafted and executed.

No need for the tantalizing main courses that evening, although we were tempted by the three Dixon lamb chops with summer tomato salad, Armenian cucumbers, Torpedo onions and German butterball potatoes; as well as the halibut in a crispy potato tangle with a tarragon aioli royale. The food was served genially by a server who has followed Chef Mulvaney loyally from his past post at Piatti in Roseville, and spoke warmly of how it was difficult for her to eat at restaurants that didn’t change menus frequently based on available fresh ingredients. Our dinner was a fine example of what the best in locally grown ingredients could provide in the expert hands of its creator.

Chef Mulvaney, originally from New York, came to California to study his craft at the prestigious School for American Chefs at Berringer Vineyards. After stints at The James Beard House in New York City, and Roxsand in Arizona, he landed in Sacramento, and stayed after testing the waters and befriending local farmers and winemakers in the area. Even his cheese selections on the menu are local. Our dessert choices on this evening, a Valrhona Covered Funny bone with a peanut butter center and a Del Rio fig croustade with brandy whipped cream followed by Ginger Elizabeth’s couture chocolates, proved that this man has a talented palate. It made for the perfect ending to a sensational meal. Did I forget to mention the wine list? Whether you’re ordering by the glass or bottle, the finest local vineyards are represented on the menu as well as a large variety for tasting an assortment. Our choices included glasses of the 2007 Trefethen Riesling from Napa Valley and a 2006 Turley Zinfandel from Howell Mountain, both reasonably priced well below market; as was the glass of 20 year old Graham’s Tawny Port served with dessert.

It’s important to note, besides the friendly and welcoming décor and staff, Mulvaney’s has added a catering space to the restaurant for larger parties that can seat 100 guests in style. Recently the new facility (attached to the restaurant and also in the renovated firehouse) hosted a pairing party for the Derek Lee charity golf tournament, with guests including such celebrity sports figures as baseball legend Dusty Baker and international soccer sensation Mia Hamm, as well as Sacramento’s own mayor.

This summer, Mulvaney’s B&L also began a monthly dinner event (4th Monday of the month), The Family Meal, which commenced in June with a pig roast, followed in July by a lamb roast; both which sold out within days of announcement on their Facebook page. Seating at those events is family style, enhancing the networking potential along with the fine dining fun. Currently the restaurant’s catering business, Culinary Specialists, is thriving even in this down economy. Patrons should book well in advance for parties and events.

Without belaboring the point, Mulvaney’s B&L is an excellent fine dining choice for anyone in Sacramento, whether dining casually or for a special occasion. Reservations are recommended on the weekends, and one should expect to eat well, relax, and not be stuck with an impossible check at the end of the night, even if you choose to indulge in a four course feeding frenzy. Mulvaney’s B&L is located at 1215 19th Street, Sacramento, CA 95811 916 441-6022 www.culinaryspecialists.com.