Misty Mountain Hop

We were flying in a helicopter next to roughly 10,000-foot-high peaks over glacially carved, impossibly blue lakes in the Canadian Rockies when the “Eureka!” moment struck – this is what it must have felt like for Earth’s pioneers, the great explorers who first set eyes on previously uncharted territories. Such were the simultaneous feelings of isolation, primal awe and appreciation for unspoiled natural splendor which were awakened.

This planet’s magnificent gifts never cease to amaze, but refreshed appreciation was aroused during a recent visit to the Alberta province. Centerpiece to the visit was Banff and Jasper national parks. Banff is located about 80 miles west of Calgary, and Jasper 250 miles southwest of Edmonton. The two parks are essentially next to each other, spanning roughly 8,000 square miles along the eastern slopes of the Canadian Rockies.

Banff National Park
In the fall of 1883, Canadian Pacific Railway construction workers discovered hot springs in Alberta's Rockies. With that small natural find, the Banff National Park was born, Canada's first national park and the world's third. The area quickly gained notoriety across North America and Europe via the railroad advertising a new, spectacular destination. William Cornelius Van Horne, the railroad's president at the time, famously said: "Since I can't export the scenery I'll import the tourists.”

Van Horne’s vision became reality thanks to the region’s unrelenting beauty and a series of grand hotels the Canadian Pacific built along the rail line under his guidance. Banff Springs Hotel was the first and it was instrumental in founding a thriving tourist destination with luxurious accommodations and top-notch service. While the first hotel may have been slightly more than a cabin in those days, it did the trick and began getting people to vacation in the park.

By the 1920s, further development of roads, accommodations, and additional rail lines took the destination to new heights. Through these manmade achievements, recreational amenities joined the scenery as star attractions. Renowned golf course architect Stanley Thompson was selected to create the “world’s greatest mountain golf course” at Banff Springs. Thompson’s masterpiece has stood the test of time. Golf Digest magazine recently named the 18-hole Thompson Course at The Fairmont Banff Springs one of Canada’s top 20 courses nationally. (Along with two other courses in Alberta’s Rockies – The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Golf Course, also by Thompson, and Kananaskis Country Golf Course by Robert Trent Jones Sr.)

By the mid 1930s the destination was attracting people for year-round activities. The area’s snow, scenery and terrain attracted the attention or winter sports enthusiasts from around the globe. Early skiers climbed nearby peaks with skins, a small strip of heavy cloth attached to the bottoms of skis used to climb uphill, which were removed upon reaching the top of the mountain in order to descend. Later, modified Model T Fords and early model snow vehicles were used to access slopes until the first ski lifts and rope tows were installed in the late 40s.

Today, the town of Banff is a charming, modern, four-season resort town, anchored by The Fairmont Banff Springs resort, which hovers castle-like over the town. Since the late 1920s to present, the historic hotel was leveled by a devastating fire and has undergone numerous renovations and expansions. In the past two decades, the hotel has reinforced its reputation as one of the world’s most unforgettable and luxurious. With architecture modeled after a Scottish baronial castle – Van Horne was a Scot – the hotel exudes royal elegance.

The Fairmont brand and service ensure that opulence and pampering await guests, particularly at Willow Stream Spa, which features rejuvenating treatments which draw upon the mountain’s indelible energy. The spa’s theme stems from the original hot springs, with mineral pools, cascading waterfalls, and relaxing massage therapies offered.

Great vacations engage all of the senses, and culinary delights are a primary key to this equation. The Fairmont Banff Springs boasts a plethora of casual and fine dining choices including fresh, local fare and also exotic foreign cuisine such as the Samari Sushi Bar and Castello Ristorante – featuring authentic Italian dishes. Personally, I found the Waldhaus Restaurant and Pub the best choice for rustic ambiance and delectable foods. The “House in the Forest” is an authentic cottage-style building and was built in 1927, originally serving as the golf clubhouse. It’s still in its original position – the edge of the course and the Spray River. After a delicious German or Swiss-accented meal, you can retire to the Wildhaus Pub, just below the dining room, for a nightcap, a game of darts, or a game of pool in a cozy bar setting.

Jasper National Park
The largest national park in the Canadian Rockies – Jasper National Park – spreads over a vast 10,878 square kilometers of mountain wilderness, dotted with snow-capped mountains all year round and anchored by a crystal-clear lakes.

Jasper is the wildest of the mountain parks and internationally-renowned for wildlife viewing. It is home to some of North America's rarest animals including grizzly bears, moose, cougars, caribou, mountain lions, wolves, wolverines, bighorn sheep and numerous elk and deer. It contains a superb backcountry trail system as well as the world famous Columbia Icefields, one of the only icefields in the world accessible by road.

Banff National Park, Jasper National Park and the third Fairmont property in the region – The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise – connect via the Icefields Parkway, which happens to be one of the most incredible scenic mountain drives in the world. It is even better when you are traveling by private coach, where you can sip a cool drink, sit back and admire the views without a worry of driving.

The Icefields Parkway – 230 km (142 miles) of unparalleled beauty – lies entirely within the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage site, recognized by UNESCO in 1984 for its outstanding natural beauty and geological value. This road, a chain of massive icefields and rugged peaks straddling the Continental Divide, marks the high watershed point of where all water either flows east or west.

With a massive number of astonishing, diverse mountain peaks to visually savor, it is easy to be distracted with endless photo opportunities in Jasper National Park. The glowing glacial lakes at their foot add an enchanting accent to these surreal scenes. Glacial silt melts off the massive glaciers and deposit into the lakes giving it an incandescence that makes the water glow a magnificent blue.
While authenticity and history define Jasper, one of the true highlights of the park is how The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge weaves modern civilization into the rustic look and feel of this mountain oasis. Located on the northern end of the Icefields Parkway, about 175 miles from Banff it was built in 1915 in association with the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway. Originally, it consisted of just a few tents on the shores of the beautiful Lac Beauvert, from where loons are heard offering up their plaintive wails.

In the 1920s, eight log bungalows were built for guests, and expansion continued until now, when nearly 100 lodging buildings await the choice and specific style and taste of virtually every visitor. This array of lodging choices and options make it a very popular site for weddings, too.

The Fairmont’s brand of luxury proliferates, complete with modern rooms, superb service and wonderful dining options. However, quite possibly the best way to experience Jasper Park Lodge is to stay in one of the signature cabins they offer, like the Milligan Manor Cabin located just off the first tee of the resort’s renowned Stanley Thompson-designed golf course. Milligan Manor is perfect for wedding parties, reunions, executive retreats and golf groups.

Cabins at Jasper are perfect for a catered barbecue where a professional chef will fire up a gourmet cookout with legendary Alberta Beef, local fish, and a list of excellent side dishes all cooked to perfection. Served on a huge deck overlooking the golf course, the dining experience is sublime.

Canmore
When the 1988 Winter Olympics came to Calgary, the small town of Canmore, a lovely 50-minute drive from the city, made its mark on history when selected to hold the Nordic skiing events and build a world-class trail system to hold the events for the Olympic Games. It was this development that has helped propel Canmore as an outdoor enthusiasts’ Mecca.

The Canmore Nordic Centre is home to training facilities to the Canadian Nordic Team and hosts many events, both in winter and summertime. Skiing, rock climbing, ice climbing, curling, golf at Canmore Golf and Country Club and its Cheers-esque vibe are all a big draws for this town. Ever visit a course where everybody knows your name – that’s Canmore Golf and Country Club. Even the course designer, Les Furber, is a member. How often can you play and dine alongside the course architect?

Canmore’s mountain scenery is jaw-dropping in its proximity and drama. The Bow River winds through the valley floor from its origin in the midst of the Icefields. One can take a peaceful, gloriously relaxing no-rapids raft trip down the Bow River from Banff to Canmore. Along the way you’ll get a sore neck craning up at the slate gray mountains which envelope it on both sides.

Two top-notch resorts are currently being rolled out in Canmore.

Silvertip Resort is a 600-acre, master-planned development complete with more than 350+ luxurious homes and condominiums inspired by early Rocky Mountain-chateau and the old world towns of Europe. A popular site for weddings, Silvertip may be well into its evolution but there are many big plans and additions to come.

One of its current amenities is a golf course so garden-like and challenging that PGA Tour star Stephen Ames is a member. Beside golf, Ames is no doubt drawn by the culinary cornucopia offered at Rustica Restaurant – Silvertip’s new steakhouse – which recently garnered the 2009 Wine Spectator Award for Excellence.

Three Sisters Mountain Village is another beautiful master-planned resort community across the valley floor from Silvertip. Its siren call is luxurious mountain living and endless four-season recreation. The resort sits at the base of three towering peaks of Three Sisters Mountains, and offers a complete list of amenities, including the highly rated Stewart Creek Golf Course. One of Stewart Creek’s fascinating draws is the way old mine shafts were incorporated into the design. It’s a well-kept touch and piece of history which adds an authentic touch and character. A second golf course is planned, as is a multi-year community build-out.

Kananaskis Country
Kananaskis Country is set in park land with huge swathes of preserved landscape as far as the eye can see coupled with well-placed lodging, amenities and activities. Facilities in Kananaskis include several campgrounds, a beautiful river, Nakiska ski area, which hosted alpine skiing, and freestyle moguls skiing during the 1988 Winter Olympic, and 36 acclaimed holes designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. at Kananaskis Country Golf Course. After a golf round there, consider relaxing in the club’s dining facility which hosted the 2002 G-8 Summit. If it’s good enough for several of the world’s leaders, it’s good enough for most!

The Delta Lodge at Kananaskis is an excellent choice for accommodations. Chef Ian Riddick is perhaps one of the area’s finest, and his enticing menu is on display at Grappa inside the lodge. With fresh ingredients picked and procured locally, Chef Riddick fuses the tastes of Alberta with creative flair as he takes your taste buds through a journey of local veggies, fresh fish, and choice Alberta Beef.

Other Delta amenities include an array of outdoor adventure activities, shopping, a tavern, yet more scintillating scenery, and comfortable, cozy rooms with luxurious linens, flat screen tvs and Internet access. The Delta is outstanding.

If you do make the journey to this wonderful lodge and area, you must consider a helicopter tour. Particularly since there is a helipad located a short distance from the hotel, operated by Kananaskis Heli Tours. This is a high-adrenalin, unforgettable way to take in the entire lay of the vast area’s land. Swoop around the towering tops of Mt. Kidd and Mt. Lorette with their sheer cliff walls and get a bird’s-eye view of heavenly valleys and jagged-edge peaks.

Whether you experience the region in whole or in parts, the Canadian Rockies is a bucket list must for the uninitiated. Historic. Dramatic. Untamed. The Canadian Rockies have maintained their bounty and charm while carefully weaving in modern conveniences and elegant lifestyle or rugged outdoor options. Something titillating awaits every discerning visitor with the rare common denominator of mountains which draw people from around the globe. 

Places to Stay
Delta Lodge at Kananaskis 403.591.7711, www.deltalodge.albertanetwork.com
The Fairmont Banff Springs 403.762.2211, www.fairmont.com/banffsprings
The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge 780.852.3301, www.fairmont.com/jasper

Things to Do
Travel Alberta, www.travelalberta.com/en-us
Banff National Park, www.banffnationalpark.com
Jasper National Park, www.jaspercanadianrockies.com
Kananaskis Heli Tours, Inc. 403.881.2500, www.discoverkananaskis.com
Rocky Mountain Raft Tours 403.762.3632, www.banffrafttours.com

Places to Play
www.canadianrockiesgolf.ca

Luxury Ground Transportation
Luxury Motor Coach Charters 403.678.2990, www.luxurymotorcoach.ca 

Brian Oar is a prolific golf course photographer and freelance golf-travel writer whose work can be viewed at www.fairwaysphotography.com.